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What 1 week on the Ring Road looks like: My adventure through Iceland

What 1 week on the Ring Road looks like: My adventure through Iceland

Tourism to Iceland has increased rapidly in the last several years ironically following the eruption of one of the country’s largest volcanoes. Prior to this tourism boom, the country hosted less than a million visitors per year, but the number this year will be record breaking at an already estimated 1.6 million people. In fact, the number of American tourists alone is expected to exceed the entire population. I’m not usually one for “bandwagon” travel, but I’d been hearing so many great things about Iceland from other bloggers that I knew I had to give it a try!

For a week, I drove around Iceland’s famous Ring Road (Route 1), which lies on the circumference of the country and provides travelers with the opportunity to experience all that Iceland has to offer in each of its beautiful regions. I decided, with two friends, to rent a car and drive around the country- because what better way to experience Iceland than to actually explore all of it? We had an absolutely incredible experience, and learned some very real lessons along the way. This is a rough outline of our 8-day trip, plus some life lessons we learned that will help you plan your own!

Days 1-2 (Reykjavik)

On days 1 and 2, we were exploring Iceland’s capital city of Reykjavik, located near the southern coast. Reykjavik is a city by Iceland’s standards, but when coming from cities like Prague or New York, it felt like a small town, and it was amazing. We got a great Airbnb rental that was perfect for a group of friends traveling, and spent our time walking around and getting rained upon.

The first thing that I’d recommend for you to do is take a free walking tour with CityWalk. Our guide, Sara, was an excellent guide and an even better insight into local Reykjavik culture, politics, and history. Iceland’s history is long and varies greatly from much of the rest of Europe’s, so it was great to hear Sara talk about some of the interesting points from the Vikings and Sagas through to modern politics and culture. After surviving our 2-hour walking tour in the rain, we found a café for some much-needed coffee, and then made our way to the Settlement Exhibition near the town center. The settlement exhibition has been built around an actual archaeological site where one of the first houses of Iceland was found, so it’s definitely worth a visit. The whole thing will take you about 30-45 minutes, and they have a student discount! Most importantly, it’s an excellent way to escape freezing temperatures, rain, and wind outside.

Reykjavik is a great city for just wandering around small side streets and getting lost near the harbor. The Harpa, the city’s big concert hall, is free to walk into and is a great example of Iceland’s somewhat obscure but beautiful architecture. You’ll also want to visit the Hallgrímskirkja church, where you can go up into the tower for a beautiful view of the city’s colorful rooftops.

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Surprisingly, the most famous food in Reykjavik is the hot dog, so you can also stop by “the” hot dog stand by the bay to get one of these treats!

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My travel companions, Eva and Ivana, with their traditional Icelandic delicacies.

Reykjavik’s nightlife is internationally recognized for being both amazing and off-beat. There are a couple of famous bars and cafés (shout out to Lebowski’s, the bar that provided our unexpected Halloween celebration- complete with Jesus and Braveheart bartenders), but the hot spots actually change all the time! Since the city (and country!) are so small in terms of population, the locals never have a problem learning about what’s going on in town. For tourists, you can pick up a free copy of The Reykjavik Grapevine, a local paper that details all of the events in town, happy hour specials (this is key- everything is expensive in Iceland), and other things to watch out for.

Day 3 (Reykjavik to Vik)

After spending a day and half exploring Iceland’s capital, we were ready to 1. Escape Reykjavik’s notoriously awful weather and 2. See some of the amazing landscape we’d heard so much about! Our first driving day included stops at popular attractions in the Golden Circle, specifically Gullfoss and Geysir.

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Geysir

Both of these spots are the most touristy that we visited during our entire trip, but they were worth visiting as they’re close to Reykjavik and are roughly along the Ring Road. There is a restaurant and tourist center at Geysir that might make a good lunch stop, as there isn’t very much else in the area. Otherwise, they’re close to each other, but they do require a drive inland off of Route 1. We made the drive to both fairly easily, as the roads are paved and there are a fair amount of other cars driving in the area. We made the nearly fatal error, however, of listening to our GPS to get us to our next stop in Vik.

If you look at a map, you’ll see that it might be more convenient to drive southeast across the interior of the country towards Vik from these places, rather than retracing steps back to Route 1 and continuing around.

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Well, we tried that. Don’t be like us. Take the seemingly longer route back to the Ring Road and continue on. We ended up driving for about 4 hours along a gravel road that had more pot holes than road without ever seeing another car. To top it off, we were also driving through a lava field, meaning that the landscape was dreary at best. My friend Ivana described it more like the scene of a horror movie. Anyway, it took us way longer than it should have, and we later learned that it may have been questionably legal for us to drive on this road without a 4×4 vehicle, so I’ll just gently encourage you not to do that.

Vik was the perfect stop for the first night on the Ring Road. It’s a larger village right on the southern coast, and has good facilities to prepare you for the rest of your trip. We stayed at the Puffin Hotel, and I can’t recommend them enough! They were very accommodating for our group, and provided a great breakfast plus clean and spacious rooms. There is also a pub right next door which is convenient when you’ve just driven for four hours through a lava field in the dark and rain/hail/snow and need something to eat (read: need a beer). We can recommend the Viking beer for such an occasion.

Day 4 (Vik to Skaftafell/Vatnajökull)

When we woke up in Vik, it was hard to believe how beautiful the scenery was in the daylight. When we arrived the night before, the entire world seemed to be pitch-black without even the stars thanks to the lovely Icelandic weather. Everything changed the next day!

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Our first stop was to the black sand beaches just outside of Vik to see a beautiful sunrise. It didn’t occur to me to expect black sand around much of the country, but there are a few places to check out this interesting natural feature- none are as beautiful as in Vik! There are also well-known and beautiful rock formations located in the tide at the Vik beach, so it’s a doubly interesting place to visit. Our first “real” stop on our road trip did not disappoint!

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After soaking up the sun rise for a while and admiring the beauty of the sun’s reflection on the black sand, we hopped in our little red CR-V to get started on the day’s adventure. We had a lot planned for the day, including the Jökulsárlón Ice Lagoon and some glacier hiking on the Falljökull glacier at sunset. As it turned out, this plan was ambitious, especially considering our many photo stops, we’ll get to that in a bit. We began driving towards the Vatnajökull National Park, as that is where our “sites” for the day were located. The drive between Vik and Vatnajökull was, in my opinion, the most beautiful stretch of Route 1 (barring, of course, the stretch between Gullfoss and Vik, as we never actually saw that part of the Ring Road…). The scenery changed from minute to minute, providing amazing views like this:

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As well as like this:

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You can imagine how entertained we were, and how often we made photo stops. After a quick stop for lunch at one of the only places we could find between Vik and Jökulsárlón (pro tip: it’s near the Skaftafell Visitor’s Center), we finally made it to the ice lagoon. Well, after some precarious and potentially life-threatening bridges. Iceland is no driving joke, ya’ll. Seeing the Jökulsárlón Ice Lagoon was worth it, though. The lagoon contains giant floating blocks of ice that have broken off the nearby glacier due to recent warming. Despite the fact that the reason this place exists isn’t the greatest, it’s still one of the most beautiful places in the country.

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There is a tourist office at the lagoon that offers different varieties of boat tours (ranging from approximately $45-75 USD depending on what you choose). I didn’t have time to take a boat tour, but I imagine it would be a pretty cool experience to get onto water level with these massive blocks of ice, particularly on the boat which brings you right up to them (the Zodiac). Just visiting the lagoon is free, and it is definitely worth a stop.

After our visit to the Jökulsárlón ice lagoon, our wheels went off the wagon, so to speak. The story went like this… We had planned on booking an ice cave tour, and had actually booked two unsuccessfully before we left for Iceland, and were unsuccessful at finding a replacement after we arrived. We booked, instead, a glacier hike so that we’d still have the chance to get onto the glacier and learn about it first-hand. The glacier hike that we booked was through Glacier Guides, and was the 3.5 hour introductory hike scheduled for 3:30 pm that afternoon. After visiting the ice lagoon, we had to back track about 40-50 minutes to get to the visitor’s center at Skaftafell where the Glacier Guides office is located. It was already around 2:45 pm, and so we knew we definitely weren’t going to make the 30-minute early arrival time (oops), but thought we would be there in time for the tour. After calling ahead to announce our delay, we set off along the curvy and uneven stretch of Route 1 towards Skaftafell, but unfortunately not quickly enough. When we arrived at the Glacier Guides office, we were informed that we had missed our tour’s departure, but that we could be rescheduled on another tour at 9:30 am the next day without losing the money we’d pre-paid. Thankfully, this worked for us (as it was actually when we intended to do our ice cave tour), but we ended up driving that stretch of road between Skaftafell and Jökulsárlón 3.5 times round trip in about 16ish hours. So, if you have any questions about that stretch of road, I’m your girl!

Anyway, by the time we left the Glacier Guides office, it was getting close to sunset at around 4:30 pm, so we decided to drive to our guest house which was just past the Jökulsárlón ice lagoon. As we came upon the ice lagoon, I asked if the girls wanted to stop one more time (it was just that beautiful), so we began to pull into the parking lot. Then, I noticed a ton of cars on the other side of the road, so we made a quick decision and headed over there. What a decision! The sun was setting just behind the mountains, and was reflecting through the ice floating in the surf in the most incredible way. This sunset definitely bumped its way into one of my top sunsets ever- and I’m a sunset person, so that’s really saying something.

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Remember how I said that the black sand beaches in Vik were really beautiful? This one was even MORE beautiful. The only downside to this one were all of those tourists that had drawn us there in the first place- everyone had their tripods set up to grab the perfect shot of the waves crashing against the ice blocks, so you could hardly get a free spot along the water’s edge. I managed, though, and also grabbed one of the wave-crashing-on-ice shots (tripod-free) 😉

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So, in the end, missing out on our glacier hike this day was a good thing, we ended up seeing way more than we would have otherwise!

Our accommodation for the evening was a guest house called Guesthouse Gerði, which was located just a short drive from the ice lagoon on a farm surrounded by water and mountains. I wouldn’t call the location of the guesthouse a town, per say, but it did have two restaurants plus two guesthouses located on essentially the same property, so it was a good spot to connect with locals and other travelers alike. We arrived at the guesthouse and were greeted by the owner who was incredibly friendly. After getting settled in our room, we made our way to the other restaurant on the property (for some diversity, you know), and ended up meeting a Czech person who used to work with Eva in Prague that has been living at Gerði for nearly 2 years! Although not technically a local, Petr was able to provide us with great insight into the local culture and community, as well as living in Iceland, so that was perfect. It turns out that there are a lot of Czech immigrants living in the area, many of whom are working in the service industry now that tourism has spiked so dramatically. The guesthouse was cute- just what we needed for the night to relax with complementary coffee, tea, and hot cocoa. We weren’t lucky to see the Northern Lights outside, but it is the perfect place to see them if you get the timing just right!

Day 5 (Skaftafell/Vatnajökull to Egilsstaðir)

The next morning we got up bright and early in order to actually be on time for our 9:30 am glacier hike. I was a little disappointed that we’d missed our previous day’s hike, as I was looking forward to seeing the sunset from the glacier, but I didn’t anticipate that the sunrise would happen during our newly rescheduled hike! We met the Glacier Guides staff at their office next to the Skaftafell Visitor Center to be fitted for our hiking boots and crampons. We prepared for practically Arctic weather, but were pleasantly surprised at the heat reflecting off the ice once we actually arrived out there. The tour leader led us to our bus which took us to the foot of the glacier. We spent about a half hour hiking on non-ice glacier before enter the ice-y bit of the glacier. I hadn’t really considered how difficult it would be to walk on ice, but it was certainly different than a typical hike. Our guides were both incredible- focused on giving us great information as well as ensuring our safety.

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Once we stopped for a photo op, we continued hiking around this giant sheet of ice and admiring even more of the natural beauty of Iceland. We coincidentally learned while hiking that the first week of November is still too early for visiting the ice caves (at least this year), so we would have had our tour cancelled if we’d managed to get on one anyway! If you’re looking to visit an ice cave with low chance of cancellation disappointment, I recommend booking an Iceland trip later in the season (mid-December to late-January, for example). Our guides thought that the ice caves wouldn’t be available for a few weeks yet, which means likely until early December, and I suppose that also means a lot of disappointed tourists. In any case, I loved doing our glacier hike, and I would definitely recommend it! Glacier Guides, in particular, was a great company to work with considering how accommodating they were with our scheduling issues. Their tour and guides were also incredible, I would 100% book another tour with them.

We spent the rest of the day driving towards our next stop: Egilsstaðir. No, I don’t know how to pronounce it. No, we never learned how to pronounce it during our trip- even our glacier guides didn’t know (they were English)! Anyway, of course the drive was absolutely beautiful, but it was definitely long. By the time we made it to Egilsstaðir, we were ready for a break and for some food. Egilsstaðir is actually a sizable town, and we’d booked an Airbnb to stay in for the evening. What we didn’t realize was that our Airbnb was easily 45 minutes outside of town on a farm located down several gravel and pot hole-y roads that we would have to drive down in the dark. We made it to the farmhouse to collect our key, had to convince a dog (with cuddles) to move out of the way of our car, and had to avoid the herd of sheep in the road as we drove towards our cottage (couldn’t have been more in the middle of no where, or more perfect). A true Icelandic adventure! Luckily, we had some food in the car that Eva and Ivana had brought with them (the real MVPs), so we were able to eat something for dinner- but be forewarned that after you leave Vik, you should have groceries with you!

We arrived at our adorable little cottage, and promptly opened a bottle of wine and began a riveting card game of BS. We had stayed up until about 1 am the night before to see the Northern Lights (we were all but promised that they would appear), but with no success, so our plan for this evening was relaxation. At around midnight, Eva went outside for a second and came back to the door claiming to have seen some Aurora activity. Ivana and I quickly threw our coats on and ran outside to see a silver streak painted across the entire sky, wiggling slightly. I have no better descriptor than “wiggling”. We knew that the Aurora was meant to only be a 3 out of 9 on the scale, if it appeared at all, so we figured that this was it even if it wasn’t the bright colors usually associated with the Northern Lights. After about 10 minutes standing outside, alone, in the vast Icelandic landscape, admiring our little silver strand, we went back inside for more wine and tea. Then, Ivana went outside for just a minute, ran back in SCREAMING, and immediately Eva and I were outside shivering our butts off (again). But this time it was DEFINITELY worth it- the Northern Lights had appeared in bright, beautiful green and purple colors, dancing across the entire sky. I’ve never seen anything like it! They were so bright and so beautiful, it was hard to believe they were real. And yes, they were still wiggling.

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Shout out to Eva, who was the only one who managed to snag a shot of the lights in the midst of our amazement! 

My experience seeing the Northern Lights, particularly while standing outside of this little cabin surrounded by essentially nothing but sheep, was amazing! The time to see the Northern Lights is in the winter, so book your trip then if you’d like to see them- but don’t expect that you will! The night before, when we were up waiting for the lights, there was an entire tour group standing outside for hours with their cameras all set up who never got the chance, so you never know when it will come.

Day 6 (Egilsstaðir to Akureyri)

The next day, we made our way to the so-called Capital of the North, Akureyri. This “city” is a beautiful little place full of cute shops, cafés, and great restaurants. But before we made it to the city, we were on the hunt for the natural hot spring we’d decided to visit in lieu of a visit to the Blue Lagoon. The Blue Lagoon, while more famous than any other bath in Iceland, is the most expensive and the most crowded. None of those things appealed to me, so we opted for visiting the Myvatn Nature Baths in the north of the country instead. These baths, located in the town of Myvatn, are just as blue and beautiful as I’ve heard the Blue Lagoon is, but a visit is a bit cheaper, and it is a much more local experience. The day that we visited, there were only a small handful of other visitors, some of whom were Icelandic. For most of the afternoon, we had the entire bath to ourselves. The baths were at a temperature of around 35 degrees Celcius, and there was a hotter tub at around 41 degrees Celcius, so it felt amazing to soak in such freezing weather. You should bring your own bathing suit (they rent them there, but, you know), but you can rent a towel from them. They have locker rooms available for changing, as well as showers for you to utilize before and after your swim. The water contains a high level of sulfur, so you shouldn’t wear any jewerly inside the baths. There is also a small café on site that serves soup and pastries for a light lunch. If you’re looking to experience the famous Icelandic hot spring experience, I strongly encourage you to consider Myvatn!

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After a relaxing afternoon, we made the drive to Akureyri where we spent the evening sampling the local beverages and trying one of the most highly-rated restaurants in the city, Rub 23. This Icelandic/Asian fusion restaurant is just as interesting and delicious as it sounds, and while it’s a bit on the pricey side (much like everything in Iceland), it’s worth it for a treat-yourself night. As we hadn’t seen people in any significant numbers (read, more than 5 at a time) since leaving Reykjavik, we didn’t expect anything in this city to be busy or booked, but Rub 23 was close! We got “that look” when we told them that we didn’t have a reservation, so if you want to be safe while visiting, it might be best to book ahead.

The city of Akureyri itself is really beautiful, and was a nice place to spend an evening and the next morning wandering. There is a cultural center there (the HOF) which I imagine is busier in the summer, and there are whale-watching excursions available in the summer months as well. We even saw some tours to Greenland, just to give you an indication at how truly far north we were here!

Day 7 (Akureyri to Vatnsdalur)

The next day, we woke up and spent a lazy morning in our apartment and then wandering around Akureyri to see it in the day time. The mountains surrounding the town were absolutely mesmerizing, I wish that I’d had a couple of days to spend here to soak up the local culture!

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Once we had our fill of relaxation, we made our way on the road again, this time towards Hvitserkur Ehf, an interesting stone formation in the ocean off the coast of Iceland. For most of the way there the roads were perfectly fine, until we turned to drive the last 25 km towards the formation, at which point things went downhill fairly quickly. Our poor red card never regained its red color from the brown mud it adopted as we bumped down a mud/gravel road with more potholes than I’ve ever seen in my life. Hvitserkur Ehf was really beautiful, but I definitely wouldn’t attempt the trip there in bad weather- we were lucky because it wasn’t raining or snowing!

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My favorite part of Hvitserkur Ehf was actually the area surrounding it. Perhaps it was because it was too muddy to walk down to the beach, but the mountains and fields rolling around the coastline were absolutely breathtaking. So much so, that of course we had to stop for more photos on our 25 km roll back towards Rt. 1.

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After we finally made it back across the road of a million potholes, we sped off to our next Airbnb for a good night’s sleep before our second-to-last drive the next day.

Day 8 (Vatnsdalur to Grundarfjörður)

For our final night on the ring road, we chose a cottage on a horse farm just outside of Grundarfjörður, a small village on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. We drove straight there, stopping first to check out the nearby waterfall.

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While admittedly much more touristy than almost any of the other places we visited, this natural beauty only spoke to the gorgeous landscape we were about to experience in Snæfellsnes on our horse farm. After a visit to the waterfall, we drove a few minutes up the road to our home for the evening, a cottage on a local horse farm. As we arrived in the day light (for once), we each took our own walk around the property to unwind and reflect a bit before heading back to Grundarfjörður for dinner. Walking around the main path of the farm was absolutely incredible! I later learned that the family living there owns basically all of the land that we could see, including one side of the gorgeous mountain above that is clearly the focal point of the entire town. Despite not seeing too many horses wandering around just yet, the scenery alone was making me melt into this little town that had already stolen my travel heart.

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After a good wander, Eva, Ivana and I drove back to town to grab some food, which gave us just enough time to notice yet again how remote this place was. Basically the only industry we could see was a bunch of big fishing boats in the port, but not much besides the local residents’ houses were there. We spent the evening drinking wine and playing cards (we upgraded to poker), and unfortunately not seeing another Northern Lights show on our last night.

Day 9 (Grundarfjörður to Reykjavik)

On our last day, I decided that I needed to go on a horse ride, as it was a prime opportunity given that the stables were a 5 minute walk from my bed. I got up early for a 9 am ride so that we could catch the sun rise over the property. I haven’t mentioned horses before in this post, but you should know that Icelandic horses are world-famous, and are absolutely everywhere across the country! They’re much smaller than horses elsewhere in the world, but they’re a pure breed specific to only Iceland. I went out with the son of the owner of the farm on a private 1-hour ride where I had a chance to speak with him about Iceland in general, but also the horses. I used to ride in college and in grad school, so it was amazing to be back in the saddle again, even if the horses were a little shorter and more plump (and more fluffy!) than I was used to. We rode all around the farm and over to the coast where we had a chance to wander around the beach and through some of the streams near by. Icelandic horses have a special gate that’s something like a very fast and smooth walk that my guide was able to demonstrate, but that I didn’t manage to master. We ran into the rest of the herd of horses as the sun rose, who all wander and graze freely on the mountains all year round.

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These horses aren’t trained like the ones that I’m used to riding, so it was amazing to see them living free and wild, but still willing to allow riders. If you have a chance to ride a horse in Iceland, I definitely recommend it- especially at the Berg Horse Farm, where the Airbnb cottages are located!

After I finished my ride, we headed off on the drive towards Reykjavik with a brief stop at one of the oldest wooden churches in Iceland. This church, called Budir, was built with some contention in the early 18th century, and still stands against a stark backdrop of seemingly endless farms and mountains.

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I recommend a visit to the church if you’ll be in Grundarfjörður, as it isn’t too far away, and the drive there is just as incredible as the place itself. We wouldn’t have had a complete trip, though, if not for one more snag in the plan! After leaving the church, we got a bit turned around and ended up getting fairly lost. We hadn’t been using the GPS as we figured we knew where we were, but when we realized we were lost we switched it on in an effort to get back near Grundarfjörður to fill up our gas tank (a luxury when traveling around Iceland, trust me). Our GPS, in its infinite wisdom, decided the fastest route back would be THROUGH the mountains. Not around. Through. So it starts taking us down a gravel road, which was really nothing new at that point, but it soon turned into a gravel, rocky mountain path at more than a 45 degree angle up. We went up two sections of this road before committing our Garmen to the backseat semi-permanently and making our way back down the mountain. We survived, but I truly feared for our car. Sorry, CR-V!

Eventually, we made it back to Reykjavik where we checked in to an apartment near-ish to the airport, as we had a 6 am flight the next day. And so ends my Icelandic journey!

So, I hope that you’re now dying to conquer the Ring Road on your own- here are my top Iceland suggestions!

  1. Fly with WowAir. We flew with WowAir from Berlin to Reykjavik because the rates were so good that it was worth the journey from Prague to Berlin. This airline is a discount airline that actually gives a shit about its customers, which is seriously refreshing. Our seats on these flights rivaled major carriers like British Airways and United for comfort and space, but the prices can not be beaten. They also run flights from Boston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York, Miami, Pittsburgh, and Washington D.C. that allow you to just visit Iceland, or allow you to visit Iceland on an extended, several-day layover before continuing on to continental Europe. While the prices for these flights don’t include baggage or food, even after you’ve paid extra for these things, you’re still paying less for the flight than you would on almost any other carrier. The service is great, the flights are great, the country is great. What more do you need?

    Seriously, you can't beat this! #notsponsored
    Seriously, you can’t beat this! #notsponsored #justafan
  2. Rent a car from CarioCario is the Icelandic version of Airbnb for car rentals, and will save you tons of money in rental fees. You book a car much like you would a place on Airbnb, and you can arrange for the car to be left at the airport, also saving you a ton of money to get from the airport to Reykjavik. We had a great experience with our little red CR-V! *Side note: rent a 4WD vehicle. This is especially key in the winter when roads get a bit slippery (in the best winter conditions), but would also be useful in the summer for all of those gravel roads. Diesel is slightly cheaper in Iceland, but petrol is roughly the same and usually cheaper to rent. We went with a petrol car. 14962984_10208737646213088_923836707_n
  3. Stay on the Ring Road. I write this to save you 4 hours of lonely agonizing driving across a lava field in what was shockingly one of the most populated areas of the country. Our glacier guide told us that it might not be legal to drive on the type of road we were driving on, and I don’t not believe him (if you know what I mean).
  4. Buy groceries when you see a store. Wine too. You don’t want to be like us and get to your Airbnb in the absolute middle of no where only to be told that the nearest place to get any food at all is nearly an hour away. One way. In Reykjavik you’re absolutely fine with finding food, as in Vik and Akureyri or any other big-ish town. In between, though, you’ll be lucky to find a grocery store, much less a restaurant, so stock up! This also works in your favor when you have a kitchen because (as I’ve mentioned) Iceland is pretty pricey. I’d say we cooked and ate out about 50/50, but cooking more and eating out less would save you more money, especially if you’re traveling for more than 1 week. If you’re traveling for about 1 week, I’d say that what we did worked pretty well.
  5. You always need gas at this station. You should never pass a gas station without filling your tank. Fortunately, I’d been warned about this before I left, so we always took care of it, but you can drive for literal hours without seeing a house. You might imagine how long you can drive before seeing a gas station in some parts of the country. It’s always best to have a full tank!
  6. A relaxed vibe is key. You will get lost. You will have to drive 10 mph on a bumpy gravel road for 20 miles. You will have to take these things all in stride. I think that Iceland, in particular, tested me and my need to always be doing something or getting to the next place. The amazing thing about Iceland is that the journey is the entire experience, so enjoy the entire ride!

I absolutely LOVED my experience on the Ring Road, and I’m so happy that I chose to do that rather than stay in Reykjavik and do day trips from there. There is so much to see in the rest of the country, including different cultures and lifestyles, that you would totally miss staying only in the capital or southern part of the country. The Icelandic people are some of the warmest, friendliest, most welcoming people that I’ve ever met, and they’re just as dumbfounded by the recent boom in tourism as you are! I think that for the next couple of years, there will be a period of figuring out how to deal with tourism from both perspectives: from people like me who decide to rent a car from a stranger online and drive around one of the most remote countries I’ve ever visited, and from local farmers who all of a sudden have a million tourists who want to sleep in their guest room. I hope that you take advantage of the opportunity to visit this amazing country, the land of fire and ice. At the same time, I hope that you respect this incredible place and its amazing people, and strive to keep it as natural and beautiful as possible.

Thank you, Iceland, for the adventure of a lifetime <3

 

Like this post? Be sure to follow me on Facebook and Instagram to keep up with my adventures! If you’d like me to plan an amazing trip for you, be sure to check out my travel consultation packages– no driving through terrifying lava fields for 4 hours, I promise.

Morocco Day 12: High Atlas Mountains (& the time I hiked to base camp of Jebl Toubkal in sandals)

Morocco Day 12: High Atlas Mountains (& the time I hiked to base camp of Jebl Toubkal in sandals)

My visit to Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains began the second half of my 3-week Moroccan adventure with a new group of travelers that were beginning the Intrepid South Morocco Discovery tour.  The first half of the tour, which I’ve already written about, was mostly focused on Morocco’s biggest and most vibrant cities, while this second half was dedicated to much of Morocco’s natural landscape, smaller villages, and more …athletic… adventures.  I know that our trip notes mentioned a hike was one optional activity in Aroumd, a village in the High Atlas Mountains, and that our guesthouse would require a roughly 30-minute walk from Imlil.  Well, let me share with you the day and a half that followed…

We arrived by van to Imlil, a small village in the High Atlas Mountains, which was clearly a hiker’s retreat.  There were mules carrying packs, locals selling homemade products such as rugs and jewelry, and a guest house where we were meant to leave our bigger bags that featured only a squat toilet.  That’s when you know it’s going to be a good day!  So we left our bags, handed our night packs over to our local mule, and began our trek to our guest house.  I wasn’t exactly sure how strenuous this hike would be, but it was definitely more challenging than I had expected.  The paths through the forest in this area are not at all flat, so the entire walk to the house was a game of not falling and breaking your ankle while trying to avoid stepping in mule poop and making way for mules that were practically charging up and down the trail- and trust me, these mules stop for no one.  This is what it looks like, for instance, when a mule is pushing you out of the way:

Good thing they’re cute.  But, I made it after about 40 minutes of heavy breathing and frequent stops for “photos”.

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And then I finally made it to the village of Aroumd!  It’s an even smaller village where it was immediately clear that we were the only tourists around, and we were staying in a beautiful mountain guest house that was propped up right in the middle of everything!

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We were seated at a big table outside the house upon arriving for the obligatory serving of Moroccan tea, the sugar in which was actually incredibly welcome after the exertion spent on our hike there.  We sat for a while in the shade enjoying the company of the other travelers on the tour, our guide, and the local hosts before we were told it that it was almost time for our optional hike in the mountains surrounding the guest house.  The hike was meant to take us to a shrine at Sidi Chamharouch that caters to suffers of mental disease should they make a pilgrimage and offer an animal sacrifice. I asked our Intrepid guide, Mohamed, if the hike would be similar to the one we’d just undertaken to get to the guest house, and he laughed and said it was just going to be longer.  Now, after nearly 2 weeks spent already traveling with Mohamed, he certainly knew I wasn’t the most athletic individual in our group which definitely accounted for his laughing at me, but I figured, “how bad can it be?” and headed off with the group for the hike.

Maybe this is when you’re beginning to realize the end of the story based on the title of this post, but this was not when I realized the end of this story as it was happening.  I was still far from realizing the adventure that was about to be undertaken.  In fact, the hike started out well, barring of course, the experience of a young village child slapping my butt as I walked by, presumably as a funny joke between him and his friends.  The walk from the guest house to the valley was lovely!  Why?  It was downhill!  But then we joined the trail from Aroumd and things began to look up.  And by up, I mean very up.

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I was committed.  And, I was wearing sandals!  These sandals, in fact.  Fantastic sandals for traveling, not such fantastic sandals for hiking up a mountain on gravel while avoid mules that were still barreling up and down the very small pathways.  The hike took about 2 hours up and then 2 hours back.  The up part was actually the easiest part, little did I know.  But getting to the end of the hike was absolutely worth it- the views along the way were some of the most spectacular that I’ve ever seen in my life.  It was incredible to see the natural landscape open up before us as we inched our way closer to the end.

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And then, finally, we made it to the summit.  Except, it wasn’t actually the summit.  It was the base camp of the highest peak in North Africa, Jebl Toubkal!  So, now I’ve realized what you all realized several sentences ago- I just climbed to the base camp of the highest peak in North Africa and the second highest peak in the entire continent in sandals, and trust me, I felt it.  Despite the physical pain I felt, though, knowing that I’d made it all the way to Sidi Chamharouch was an absolutely amazing feeling, and I’d do it again in a heartbeat- just maybe in more sensible shoes.

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Once we arrived to the camp and shrine, we realized the the famous white rock which housed the shrine was not-so-natural, and we all got a pretty good kick out of it.  It was, however, really interesting to learn about the superstition surrounding the shrine, and the contradiction that the pilgrimages and sacrifices have with Islam, the official religion of those that visit it.  As non-Muslims, we weren’t permitted to enter the shrine, but the area surrounding it was beautiful, as were the people that live there.

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Even more amazing, however, were all of the animals that live there.  We found goats jumping around, mules grazing, and gorgeous birds flying through the skies.  It made me want to hike to the actual summit (again, with hiking boots), to see the views from above.  But instead, I will leave you with a photo of jumping goats, which demonstrates the excitement I had after getting back to our guest house in the evening, washing an entire mountain’s worth of dirt off of me and my feet, and falling asleep in a nice, cozy bed.

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Next up I have a recap of my time spent in the Sahara including a close call with a camel and a fear-inducing 4-wheel drive in the middle of the night.  For more of my Moroccan adventures, check out Days 1-3 in Casablanca, Days 4 & 5 in Rabat, Moulay Idriss and Volubilis, Days 5 & 6 in Fes, and Days 7 & 8 in Chefchaouen!

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Morocco Days 7-8: Chefchaouen

Morocco Days 7-8: Chefchaouen

After exploring one of the biggest cities in Morocco, Fes, I was happy to head to a smaller town to get a feel of the small-city local culture for a few days.  Plus, our tour guide promised that the hotel in Chefchaouen was one of the nicest that we would stay in, so I couldn’t wait to fit some R&R into my 3-week backpacking adventure through (the very hot) Morocco.

Chefchaouen, also called “The Blue Pearl”, has become Instagram famous recently, and for good reason.  It just takes one search of the #chefchaouen hashtag to see why I desperately wanted to visit this town while I was in Morocco.  In fact, the biggest reason that I chose this particular Intrepid tour was because of the stop it provided in Chefchaouen.  After driving through some very windy mountain roads, we arrived at an outlook over the town which, I must admit, didn’t look particularly blue.

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Not that it doesn’t look beautiful- I was just expecting a lot more blue.  But, we continued down the mountain road into the city to find our hotel for the next two days, and things started to become much bluer!  After checking into the hotel, Darechchaoeun, we began our short walk into the city center to see how blue the Blue Pearl really was.  Well, it was very blue.  And very beautiful:

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Actually, even the streets that weren’t this blue were incredibly beautiful.  I loved walking around the medina to explore all of the beautiful colors, talk to the shop keepers, and enjoy the company of the true Chefchaouen inhabitants.

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Spending two days in this little town was absolutely incredible.  While there aren’t any true “sights” to behold, really, the town itself is one of the most beautiful places I visited during my 3 weeks in Morocco.  Around every corner I found beautiful architecture, people, and colors like I’d never seen them before. It felt as if I was actually wandering through a painting.

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While visiting Chefchaouen, I visited a rooftop restaurant with an incredible view overlooking both the city and the sunset behind the mountains: La Lampe Magique.  The restaurant is situated directly above the central square of the city, but the rooftop provides a hidden getaway to enjoy the ambiance of Chefchaouen without the commotion of the square below.  There are a lot of restaurants in the main square, but it was pretty clear that almost all of these are geared specifically to tourists.  While La Lampe Magique also hosts many tourists each evening, the prices are right, the location is great, and the views are amazing- I would recommend a stop for a dinner at sunset!  In particular, listening to the evening call to prayer resonate through the valley over the city’s rooftops and bouncing off the walls of the mountains was a surreal experience, and one that I will certainly never forget.

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These two days in Chefchaouen essentially ended my visit to northern Morocco.  After departing from this beautiful, blue city, I headed north to Tangier where I took an overnight train to Marrakech after a few hours spent at the northern coast.  My overnight train experience, which was my first overnight train experience, was incredibly interesting!  The train left in the late evening, and we were assigned to “bedrooms” that were incredibly small cabins with two bunkbeds and plastic orange mattresses.  We were 4 girls to a room, and it was certainly an adventure climbing over one another to make our beds and sort out our bags for the next roughly 11 hour journey south to a more desert-y terrain.

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Overall though, it was a great experience, and I’m happy to have had the opportunity to take a more local form of transportation through about half of the country.  I loved going to sleep in the most northern part of Morocco, surrounded by Spanish influences, and waking up surrounded by orange sand just outside of the cultural capital of the country.

Next up?  Look out for my posts about my journey through the High Atlas Mountains, Sahara desert, and the southwestern coastal city of Essaouria.  I’ll also be throwing up a story about my traditional Moroccan hammam experience in Chefchaouen, as this story deserves its very own post!

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1-Day Tour of Prague: Instagram Takeover @VisitCZ

1-Day Tour of Prague: Instagram Takeover @VisitCZ

I spent a day taking myself on a one-day tour of Prague while behind the wheel of the official Czech tourism Instagram account: Visit Czech Republic.  I like to go on these adventures in my “home city” every once in a while to remind myself how truly incredible Prague is- and this was a great excuse to do it!  I decided that I wanted to give the followers of the Visit Czech Republic account a 1-day tour of Prague.  Specifically, I wanted to show what I would suggest someone do if they had only one day in this beautiful city, and then show what that day would look like in real time!  So, as a summary of my day exploring Prague, here is my 1-day guide:

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I started my day at Narodni divadlo (the National Theater) so that I could take my favorite walk across the Vltava River on my way to breakfast (more on that later!).  I love this area of Prague because the architecture there is incredible in every direction, if not a little obscure with the Nova Scena theatre sitting next to the regal National Theatre.  I also think this bridge gives you one of the most beautiful views of Charles Bridge and Prague Castle, and with a relatively tourist-free experience.  Walking from the theatre side to the castle side of the river will point you in the direction of Petrin Hill and a beautiful walk in one of Prague’s natural getaways.

After this nice little river walk, I stopped for breakfast at the famous Café Savoy.

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Café Savoy is just one of Prague’s many lavish cafés that have historically been meeting places for Prague’s great artists and thinkers.  Today, this café is known for its incredible breakfast selection, and more importantly, for its pastry selection.  While it isn’t the cheapest option in Prague (of which there are quite a few), I certainly think that a breakfast stop here is worth it for anyone looking to experience a little of Prague’s high culture and beautiful architecture to start their day in the city.

Once finished with breakfast, I took a walk along the river through the neighborhood of Kampa.  Famously the home of the Kampa Museum and the David Černý crawling babies statues, I absolutely love strolling through the beautiful park and waterfront nooks in this part of the city.  I never fail to get lost here when I stray from the river’s edge, and that’s one of the things that I love most- no matter how many times you visit, you will always find something new and beautiful.  On that note, sorry to my cousin Ryan, who never actually got to see the John Lennon Wall when he visited Prague because of how miserably lost I get in these windy streets!  In any case, my journey took me to the foot of Charles Bridge, one of the most iconic pieces of architecture in Prague.

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I love this view of Charles Bridge and Old Town behind it because along the edge of the water, the city is so peaceful despite the chaos blooming on top of the bridge.  I love sitting on the edge of the river in Kampa and watching the swans and boats float by with Prague’s beautiful skyline behind; it is a serene experience not to be missed!

But of course, a stroll atop Charles Bridge should also be on the agenda for any 1-day tour of Prague.

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This bridge connects Old Town (Staromestka) with Mala Strana (Lesser Town), and is a beautiful place to walk- especially in the early morning before the tourists descend upon in such force that you can no longer see the bridge.  Walking from Old Town to Mala Strana will bring you to Malastranské namesti, now a pedestrian square that’s home to some of Prague’s most beautiful rooftops.  I took my walk from Kampa to the top of the bridge, and then through to Mala Strana where I took the 22 tram up to Prazky Hrad (Prague Castle).  For the more enthusiastic among you, you might also walk to Prague Castle- but just be aware that it is quite a hill.  I usually opt for the tram up, walk down route.

My next stop is one of my favorite places in Prague: the South Garden at Prague Castle.  This incredibly beautiful garden sits just below the St. Vitus Cathedral, Golden Lane, and the castle rooms, but is far less crowded than those areas tend to be.  Plus, the views from these gardens are spectacular, and they’re free to enter!

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I like to pop up here with a book, find a quiet spot, and admire the Bohemian orange rooftops while relaxing in the sun or shade.  Keep in mind that these gardens are open only in the summer, so you’ll have to save you visit for these beautiful, sunny months to enjoy these views.

*Pro tip: If you do visit Prague when these gardens are closed, there is a Starbucks just outside the gates of the castle that has similar views and an outdoor terrace.  While I typically do not encourage visits to Starbucks outside of the USA (especially when there are such great local coffee shops in Prague), I do recommend a visit here just to enjoy the view- and it will only cost you the price of a coffee!

After sunbathing in the castle gardens, I made my way down the hill towards the Vltava River for one of the most “local” things that you might do in Prague: have a beer at Naplavka!  Naplavka, roughly translated to “along the river” is an area below the Vyton tram stop on the Old Town side of the river where you’ll find a farmer’s market, floating bars, swans, bikes, and locals enjoying the local refreshment with their feet dangling above the water.  Naplavka actually runs a bit bigger than this- there’s a Naplavka area on the Prague Castle side of the river, too- but this area below Vyton is usually the most active day & night.  During the day, this is the place to go with some friends and a camera to capture some of the local beauty.  By night, this is a great place to start your night with a group of friends on one of the many boat bars.  The prices are local, the beer is delicious, and the scenery is incredible- who could ask for more?

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After an afternoon spent enjoying Naplavka, I began making my way back to my own neighborhood- Zizkov.  Zizkov is known as one of the many up-and-coming neighborhoods in Prague, and as a New Yorker, I like to think of it as the Brooklyn of Prague.  In Zizkov, you’ll find amazing cafés, bars, restaurants, and very unique architecture.  Although many consider it an eyesore, one of my favorite examples of Zizkov architecture is the Zizkov Television Tower located near namesti Jiriho z Podebrad.

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I’ve grown fond of this somewhat strange tower that dominates the Prague skyline, as its strange qualities really demonstrate exactly what Zizkov is about.  The great thing about the TV Tower is that it’s now the home of a mini-golf course in the summer and ice skating rink in the winter, both located just below the tower’s entrance.  You might also choose to ride the elevator to the top of the tower for some incredible views of the city beyond.

And finally, a visit to Prague would not be complete without watching the sun set behind the castle from Riegrovy sady.  This park, located between Zizkov and Vinohrady (about 10-minutes’ walk from the TV Tower), is home to two beer gardens and beautiful green space in the middle of the city.  From the hill in Riegrovy sady, you have views over Old Town, Mala Strana, and Prague Castle that not many tourists get the chance to see.  At sunset, these views are even more incredible as the sky changes color and the silhouette of the Prague Castle emerges.

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In the summer, you’ll see young people drinking beers, playing guitar, and enjoying the ambiance of this young and vibrant neighborhood.  After the sun sets, you’ll see everyone move to the nearby beer gardens to watch the evening football match, or to simply enjoy some more of Prague’s famous brews.

So, I hope that you enjoyed my one-day visit of Prague, and thank you for following along!  If you’re planning to visit Prague, and would like a longer guide, check out my 3-day Guide to Prague, available for download here.  If you’d like me to plan your perfect Prague or Czech vacation, check out my travel consultation packages– I’d be happy to work with you!

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Morocco Days 5-6: Fes

Morocco Days 5-6: Fes

After leaving Meknes, we headed on our way via a short train journey to the city of Fes- our 5th city of this whirlwind adventure through the Kingdom of Morocco!

Fes is one of the four imperial cities in Morocco, and was truly incredible to visit.  Perhaps most interestingly, Fes is known as one of the last hold-outs for true Moroccan handicraft, as the government has arranged for handicraft workers in Fes to be compensated well in order to preserve Moroccan artistic and cultural traditions.  Since Fes has such a reputation for creating beautiful Moroccan art, we spent the large majority of our time in this city visiting the local artists (read: shopping) and wandering through the old medina.  There is a great viewpoint of Fes that shows the true expanse of the medina’s intricate network of buildings, and makes you thankful for bringing along a local guide.  

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Our guide was amazing, and she was able to successfully show us all of the interesting things to see within the medina, all while preventing anyone from getting lost in the tiny alleys and streets of the souk (market).  Most significantly, we visited the local mosaic and ceramic co-op where many of Morocco’s beautiful clay tiles, glasses, tajines, vases, and fountains are created.  We first wandering around the studio spaces of the co-op to learn about the role of each artist, and how these incredibly intricate pieces are created by hand.

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Fortunately, you can have the co-op send any products you purchase back to your home via insured DHL or FedEx post, so you can go hog-wild with all of the beautiful ceramics and mosaics on offer!  Fountain anyone?

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We also visited the Fes tannery, which is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  A visit to the tannery involves a hike up about 4 flights of stairs until you reach the roof of the building.  From there, you have a killer view of the leather dying processes of the tannery, including the smell associated.  I think the smell has something to do with the pigeon excrement that they use in the dying process, but it’s just a wild guess!  The process is a centuries-old tradition that is certain to remain the same now that the site is protected by UNESCO.  Despite the smell, it’s an interesting place to visit, and an even better place to shop!  You’ll be able to find any leather good you could possibly want in the showroom once you’ve learned about how the products are made down below.

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One of the most impressive places that we visited was the Fes Royal Palace.  You might think this means that we got to have a stroll through the palace, or at least the palace grounds, but it’s not actually possible because members of the royal family still inhabit or utilize all of the royal palaces in Morocco.  The impressive bit that we did see- the door- was enough for me to imagine what might lay beyond.

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Our wander through the souk of Fes’ old medina was an incredible look into the intricate details of a Moroccan market, visited daily by local families looking to pick up fresh ingredients for the day’s meals.  

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Be careful, though, it’s incredibly easy to get lost in this medina, as it seems to go on forever and the streets wind in every way imaginable making the task of re-tracing your steps nearly impossible.  The Fes medina is certainly worth a visit, as it holds many architectural and cultural treasures that wouldn’t be seen otherwise!  For instance, there is a beautiful Quranic school within the depths of the medina that has some of the most incredible architecture that I’ve ever seen.

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The detail in the mosaics, carvings, and etchings within this old Quranic school are absolutely exquisite, it was hard to believe that they were handmade.  There is also the oldest university in the world, founded in 859 AD, located within the medina.  It’s only possible for Muslims to attend and visit the university as it’s located partially within a mosque, but we were able to have a peak inside to see how incredibly beautiful the architecture is.   And the best part?  The university was founded by a woman!  

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It was also interesting to see so many local people lounging in the shaded archways of the mosques in the medina, but we learned that this is a place where locals might go to escape the intense Moroccan heat and chaotic nature of the surrounding media.  As such, the mosque has turned into a social gathering space in a secluded place amongst the vendors in the surrounding medina.  It was great to get a peek into such an interesting part of the local culture and society seeing everyone lounging and socializing in the shade of the beautiful archways.

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I’ve truly enjoyed learning about the culture and history of Morocco so far, especially as a separate entity from the culture and history of Islam.  In most cases, it seems as if the cultures of the country and religion go side-by-side, but the divergences have become the source for quite interesting conversations amongst our tour group, and especially with our local guides.  Fes became home to many of these conversations as our local guide from Fes was so fantastic, but also because of the interesting details we learned about the country, such as the world’s oldest university being founded by a woman.

As much of the “western” world media is currently focusing on the evils of Islam and Islamic culture- something I have vehemently stood against- it was refreshing and beautiful to hear local people, both men and women, speak about their history, culture, customs, and religion in a way that reflects how proud they are of their Moroccan culture and heritage.  I particularly enjoyed hearing about the development of the woman’s role in Moroccan society, as not so long ago it was forbidden for women to even leave their houses or be seen by people outside of their families.  Our local guide described her struggle to find her place in the tourism industry, and her successes (clearly- she is incredible at what she does).  She even joked that because there is only one key for their house, her husband was the one who had to stay home that day since she locked him in!  While there is obviously a level of humor in such a statement, it shows how far women truly have come in this society, and the progress that’s being made.  I’ve come to realize that no society is perfect, but it is especially damaging for us to judge another society’s values and customs using our own as a baseline.  As our guide, Mohamed, explained to me, we can sit on opposite sides of a table looking a number.  I might see a number 6, and he might see a number 9, but we’re still looking at the same thing; there is no “right” way of seeing any one thing, particularly when it comes to culture.  I like to think that I had a good grip on combating ethnocentrism prior to my travels in Morocco, but this trip has certainly shown me that there is always room for improvement in understanding other people, and I am thankful for everything that I’ve learned so far.

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Morocco Days 4 & 5: Rabat, Moulay Idriss, Volubilis, and Meknes

Morocco Days 4 & 5: Rabat, Moulay Idriss, Volubilis, and Meknes

Wow.  It’s only the 5th day since I landed in Morocco, and I have to admit, it’s incredibly overwhelming!  So far, I’ve visited 4 cities/towns and just landed in my 5th (Fes) to explore over the next day or so.  As you can imagine, we’ve been moving pretty quickly, although I have to say that I’m impressed at how well everything has been organized thus far!  I am exhausted, though, and anticipate many early nights in my future on this trip!

After departing from Casablanca yesterday morning, we took the train about 2 hours north to the city of Rabat.  Rabat is the current capital of Morocco, and one of the four imperial cities in the country (alongside Marrakech, Meknes, and Fes).  We were given maps and were told to wander around the city on the hunt for the 3 major sites in the city.  First, we stopped at Rabat’s Kasbah (a former royal fortress) made from orange clay located just outside the old medina.  

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I also managed to wander into a small street market surrounded by beautiful blue walls.

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After leaving the Kasbah, I had a wander through the medina, which is a part of the city with small winding streets.  The souk is the local market, typically located in the medina, and as Moroccans typically do not store food at home, especially in large cities like Rabat, the market was full of fresh products for the locals to purchase for the day.  I loved wandering through my first true Moroccan market to see all of the products on offer, as it was a great glimpse into local life in Rabat.  After exiting the hectic market, I walked along the walls surrounding the medina towards a mosque and the Muhammad V Mausoleum .  The minaret (tower) of the mosque was meant to be the tallest in the world, but the king died before it was finished and the decision was made to leave it as it was when he passed giving it a unique flat roof rather than the more typically pyramid roofs of many of the minarets in Morocco.  

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Standing behind the mosque and minaret is the Mausoleum where tombs of the royal family are located.  The tomb is still guarded by the king’s guards; two men sit mounted on beautiful horses at the front gate of the Mausoleum, and one stands at each entrance of the tomb, all dressed in the traditional costumes.  

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The architecture of the Mausoleum is absolutely beautiful with gorgeous arches and mosaics creating such a peaceful atmosphere.  I loved the opportunity to visit this place, as it was much more beautiful and impressive than I was expecting.  As we were on a “self guided tour” for Rabat, I do wish that I had more information about what exactly the significance of each part of the Mausoleum is to understand the history and culture behind it.  In any case, it was a great start to our first stop after Casablanca!

Once we finished lunch in Rabat, we headed on a train towards Meknes where we boarded taxis bound for Moulay Idriss.  Moulay Idriss is a small town of about 20,000 people located in the Rif mountains in northern Morocco.  The city was originally founded in the 10th century by Moulay Idriss el Akhbar, who was the great-grandson of the Islamic prophet Muhammad.  Now, Moulay Idriss is a beautiful little town known as a holy city, as many make pilgrimages to the tomb of Moulay Idriss el Akhbar, who is buried at a mosque in the center of the city.  While the mosque is off-limits to non-Muslims (as the town itself was until several years ago), the town was absolutely incredible to visit.  The walls along all of the small winding streets were painted a bright turquoise blue color which made everything look incredibly beautiful.

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We took a short tour with an incredible local guide to learn about Moulay Idriss, both the town and the man, and to learn more about small Moroccan communities.  I truly enjoyed the opportunity to walk around this small, isolated town with someone who had grown up there, as it was an amazing opportunity to really truly understand the local culture.  At the end of our walk, we were brought to a viewpoint over the town where we could see the roofs of the entire town, including that of the beautiful mosque, right as the sun was beginning to set.

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We were staying with a local family in their Riad bed & breakfast in the town of Moulay Idriss called La Colombe Blanche.  The hotel is perfectly located and run by an awesome family who were incredibly warm and welcoming. After watching the sun set over the hills from their terrace, we had a lovely dinner at their home where we learned to cook traditional cous cous (much more difficult than it seems), and then ate kefta (meatball) tangine and cous cous around a family-style table.  This was an amazing experience, as clearly so much effort had gone into preparing the meal and it was lovely to learn more about the people traveling with me, as well as Muhammad, our guide.  Plus, the interior of the home was beautiful!  I highly recommend a stay here if you plan to visit Moulay Idriss- and be sure to order dinner from the family, I have never had more delicious cous cous!

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The next day we made our way back to Meknes with a pit stop at the nearby Roman settlement Volubilis.  Volubilis was a massive Roman settlement, one of two in Morocco, but was unfortunately largely destroyed by an earthquake in the late 18th century.  Still, standing essentially alone within these ruins was a very surreal experience.  The settlement is surrounded by rolling hills, and seemed to go on for miles.  We were able to walk through some of the massive houses that were owned by wealthy families in Volubilis, complete with gorgeous mosaic “carpets” which still lay as they were on the floors of the individual rooms.

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We were also able to walk through the forum, and then the cathedral which has no walls or roofs, but still has massive and beautiful columns outlining where the structure stood in its time.

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A visit to Volubilis is definitely worth putting on the itinerary of a North Moroccan trip, particularly if you will already be visiting Moulay Idriss.  It’s possible to get a taxi or local guide to take you to Volubilis from Moulay Idriss, and the prices can be quite reasonable (after haggling, of course!).  

After departing from Volubilis, we made the 45-minute journey back to the town of Meknes to visit the ruins of the palace created by King Moulay Ismail, a contemporary of Louis XIV of France.  King Moulay Ismail was well known for trying to create structures and a kingdom just as amazing as those created by Louis XIV, and so what is left after the same earthquake that destroyed Volubilis is still absolutely incredible.  The most note-worthy structure is the stable which was built to house 12,000 of the king’s horses.

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After visiting these ruins, we stopped in the medina for a camel burger before heading on to our next stop in Fes.  Camel burgers are rarely consumed in northern Morocco, as the meat is quite expensive for the locals and you won’t see many camels in the area, but there are still a couple of (very) small restaurants that are willing to prepare them!

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Overall, I loved this part of the trip as these were places I might not have thought to go to on my own.  I would especially recommend a visit to Moulay Idriss and Volubilis, as they’re very remote but truly incredible pieces of Moroccan history and culture that would be difficult to find in other places in the country!

 

Up next: Fes and Chefchaouen (the Blue City)!  Remember to follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and on this site to hear the latest about my Moroccan travels!

 

Morocco Days 1-3: Casablanca

Morocco Days 1-3: Casablanca

I’m sitting by the ocean listening to the evening’s competing prayer calls ring out over the city, and I still can’t quite grapple with the fact that I’m in Casablanca.  In Morocco!  I’ve been dreaming about this day for years, and finally, I’m here.  I’ve spent my first day visiting the legendary city of Casablanca, and before I part ways with my entry point into Morocco for my next city (Rabat), I’m eager to share my thoughts.

Yesterday, after a grueling 12 hour travel day (thanks to terrible Prague-Casablanca flight connections), I arrived to the Casablanca airport ready to jump into bed.  First, I was shepherded through to immigration, where I was met with a sticker on the immigration window that said, “Smile, you’re in Casablanca!”  I’m certain that the immigration officer thought I was insane because, truly, this sticker put the biggest grin on my face.  After receiving my Moroccan passport stamp, I made my way towards baggage claim and what I thought would be a similar baggage claim experience to every other that I’ve ever had.  Nope.  Customs officials actually check all bags, even in the “Nothing to Declare” section, which was an exciting surprise.  Obviously my backpack didn’t look too threatening, and I was sent on my way.  I knew the approximate price of a taxi to get to my hotel, and considering it was nearing 9:30 pm, I was game for a quick and easy trek to the city.

The airport in Casablanca looks strangely void of all shops/restaurants/normal airport things… until you go outside.  All of the food shops are outside!  It was such a great idea, I would love to grab lunch outside of the airport before being crammed into that metal tube to go catapulting through the sky.  In any case, after looking over this outdoor food court, I found my way to the taxi stand.  I was placed (literally) in a taxi with a nice man named Rada.  Rada told me that the cost of the taxi ride would be 300 Dirham after seeing the address of my hotel, and I agreed, so we went on our way.  On the entrance ramp to the highway, Rada pulls over, asks to look at the address again, and then politely informs me that he misunderstood where the hotel was, and the cost would actually be 650 Dirham.  More than double the originally agreed-upon price!  He asked if it was okay, and I just laughed.  We were on the highway entrance ramp- this didn’t seem like a good time to say no so that I could find out what his next move would be.  After this initial impression, I was grumping pretty hard in the back seat, but eventually Rada and I began to talk (mostly in French, which was an interesting exercise for me).  Sometime during this chat, he asked me out for coffee, and I politely said something to the effect of, “Yeah, sure”, figuring this was some sort of hypothetical coffee.  Again, nope.  Next thing I know, we’ve stopped at a coffee shop on one of the busy streets of Casablanca, and we’re drinking espresso at 10:00 pm.  It was amazing.  I liked talking to Rada and learning about him and his country over a casual nighttime coffee.  Actually, it was sweet of him, because he picked up the bill and then continued driving me to my hotel.  These types of encounters are my favorite, and while I was a bit nervous at this somewhat unusual taxi situation, I was thankful for the opportunity to be invited into the life of a local stranger that I’d met by chance. So all in all, a successful first 2 hours in Casablanca.

This morning, I made my first stop the Hassan II Mosque, located on the coast of Casablanca.  I got there about an hour before the tour I planned to take so that I could find something to eat.  I ended up at a very local café with excellent coffee and pastries (for cheap!), and enjoyed sitting amongst the local café patrons sipping java while looking down the road at the 3rd largest mosque in the world.  What an incredible experience.  Afterwards, I made my way over to the mosque, and began taking an absurd amount of photos.  Really, I’m ashamed.  But the exterior of the mosque was just so beautiful, I really couldn’t stop myself.

Morocco: Casablanca

Morocco: Casablanca

Morocco: Casablanca

Morocco: Casablanca

After about a half hour of that, I went to purchase tickets for the 11 am tour.  It’s difficult to find online, but the Hassan II Mosque allows visitors inside 3 times per day (excluding Friday) at 9, 10, and 11 am.  Tickets are 120 Dirham for adults, and 60 Dirham for students, which includes a guided 45-60 minute tour, and can be purchased on site at the cash desk.  It’s good to arrive about 15 minutes prior to the tour start time, as all visitors of all languages will be lining up to get their tickets.  Tours are offered in English, Spanish, French, German, Arabic, and Italian.  A lot of visitors will only visit the exterior of the mosque, which is admittedly gorgeous, but the interiors are absolutely worth visiting.

The mosque is the 3rd largest in the world after two in Saudi Arabia, and has the tallest minaret in the world.  The structure was built in 6 years because the craftsmen worked in shifts 24 hours/day 7 days per week.  It’s absolutely mind-boggling how incredible this place is.

Morocco: Casablanca

After visiting the mosque, I spent some time walking the coast and watching the mosque fade in the distance while local children swam in the ocean below.  It’s clear that despite this being such a grand structure, and such a highly-visited tourist attraction, it’s still a center of the community.

Morocco: Casablanca

After getting exhausted wandering in the 90-degree humid heat, I hopped in a taxi bound for the Habous neighborhood of the city.  This section of Casablanca is referred to as the “new medina” or “little Marrakech” because of the market stalls lining the streets, but still the medina nature of the architecture and layout despite being outside the old city walls.  First, I grabbed lunch at a local café just outside the medina.  The waiter didn’t speak English, so I was back to communicating in French.  That would have been fine, except I’m so sure that French is slightly different here, and people also speak really quietly.  Even if I could understand him, I definitely couldn’t hear him, so I just agreed to what he was trying to suggest.  I ended up eating a traditional breakfast item of omelette tangine with miscellaneous meat, and it was really good!

After lunch, I began exploring the medina that rested just beyond my café.  I loved walking around this part of the city and checking out what all of the shop owners and vendors were selling.  I found it really interesting that the handful of stalls on the road leading from my taxi drop point and restaurant were incredibly touristy, with vendors trying to convince me to purchase their products.

Morocco: Casablanca

As I kept walking further into the market, the shops clearly became “local” with local women purchasing dresses made from exquisite fabric, and men haggling for new shoes.  These vendors didn’t seem interested in me, and it gave me the chance to just observe this local business- an amazing experience!

Morocco: Casablanca

I also loved that so many of the vendors throughout the medina were selling art.  I didn’t see much of the traditional touristy mass-produced pieces, but rather beautiful oils on canvas of local street scenes, animals, and people.  Every nook and cranny of the market had something interesting- I’m very excited to compare this medina to others that I’ll see in upcoming cities.

Morocco: Casablanca

After finishing up in the medina, I was ready to head back to my hotel to relax a little and clean my clothes.  I went to grab a taxi, and found that 5 other people were trying to grab a taxi back to my hotel!  I ended up sharing one with two girls from Australia, who I came to realize would also be on the tour that I’ll be joining tomorrow.  I’m excited to meet the rest of the group and group leader at our starting point tomorrow evening- I’m sure that this is going to be an amazing adventure, and I can’t wait to get started.

Next up: Rabat!

 

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Preparing for Travel: 3 Days Until Morocco

Preparing for Travel: 3 Days Until Morocco

For me, preparing to travel is actually the most nerve-wracking and anxiety-inducing part of the entire experience.  Once I’ve arrived at my destination, I’m overwhelmed by excitement; I’m learning new things, meeting new people, and exploring as much as I possibly can.  Before my departure, however, I spend a lot of time thinking about all of the ways that I could possibly prepare for my impending adventure.  If I’ve learned one thing from several years of travel, it’s that most of the preparation isn’t even close to necessary.  But, here we are, another 3-week backpacking adventure on the horizon, and I’ve been planning my packing list for 2 weeks already.  You know, “just in case”.  I’ll be spending 19 days living out of my backpack making my way through the gorgeous country of Morocco.

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My Moroccan Itinerary

This trip has been at the top of my travel list for a long time, so I’m excited that I’m finally able to make it a reality!  For months, I’ve been combing through pictures of Moroccan towns and cities, as well as the gorgeous landscapes that are plastered all over Pinterest.  Who wouldn’t be excited?

As a travel blogger and expat, I often find myself embarrassed for talking about any pre-travel anxiety- after all, this is exactly what I’m supposed to love doing, right?  Maybe I’m unique in that I essentially travel for a living and still get nervous about my upcoming trips, but this is who I am and it’s not like I can run from that.  So, what do I do to ease the nervousness that comes before a big trip?  I do research about where I’m traveling to, figure out the best things to pack so that I don’t have to worry about what I’ve forgotten, and consider all of the amazing experiences that I’m about to have!

I’ll be traveling to Morocco with Intrepid Travel, a travel and tour company that focuses on responsible, immersive, small-group travel.  Usually I’m not one for tour groups.  Actually, usually I despise tour groups with a pretty incredible passion, but I wanted to go with a group on this trip for a couple of reasons.  First, despite all of the wonderful female bloggers out there singing the virtues of solo female travel (and I’m often one of them), I didn’t want to travel across Morocco for 3 weeks by myself, much to my parents’ relief.  Secondly, I wanted a truly local experience, and this tour, Morocco Encompassed, allows for me to take local forms of transportation (my first overnight train!), stay with host families, and meet local people in a way that I might not otherwise have been able to.  I am a little apprehensive about committing to such a long trip without any prior experience with this company, but I’m excited for the adventure and to meet my fellow group members as we make our way all across the country.  I’m also excited that I didn’t have to do much planning for this trip.  I plan travel all the time, so having a break from planning for one of my own vacations was a nice relief!

I’ll be blogging throughout my trip, so I’ll be able to give you an in depth and real-time look at my experience traveling through a large portion of this incredible country.  I’ll also be uploading photos (probably more frequently than blog posts) on Instagram, so I encourage you to follow me there to see what I’m getting up to each day!  I’m excited to have the opportunity to invite you along to join me on my adventure.  I look forward to hearing from you as I go, and to sharing my thoughts, excitement, and fears with you as  I embark on one of my dream trips.  If you’d like to be notified of my new posts, please submit your e-mail on the right side of this page.

I should also mention, I am not in any way being sponsored by Intrepid Travel for any posts that I write throughout my experience.  Everything that I write will be my completely honest opinion, and I hope that it will help you decide whether or not a trip like this is right for you!

My Itinerary

  • Days 1-3: Casablanca (I’m arriving 2 days early so that I can explore this city before our group departs)
  • Day 4: Rabat/Moulay Idris
  • Day 5: Volubilis/Fes
  • Day 6: Fes
  • Day 7-8: Chefchaouen (VERY excited about this!)
  • Day 9: Tangier
  • Day 10-11: Marrakech
  • Day 12: Aroumd
  • Day 13: Ait Benhaddou
  • Day 14: Zagora
  • Day 15: Sahara Camp
  • Day 16: Taroudannt
  • Day 17-18: Essaouira
  • Day 19: Marrakech
How To Make Resort Travel Culturally Immersive

How To Make Resort Travel Culturally Immersive

Now that summer is here, many people are gearing up for their summer vacations all over the world.  And really, what better place for a good R&R vacation than a beach-side resort?

You can have these views:

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These drinks:

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And the sand between your toes with nothing to think about besides what you’ll have for your next frozen beverage.

I love resort vacations as much as the next girl, but one thing that has become increasingly irksome to me is how little I get to see of the city or country where my resort is located.  I was recently asked whether I had any local friends in Nassau after having visited the island almost annually for 16 years.  And I was embarrassed to admit that no, I don’t really have any local friends.  I’m sure you know this feeling, too- you get off the plane and take a car to your hotel, and then you spend an entire week never leaving the property.  And, you haven’t even noticed, right?

In the last few years, I’ve begun to notice how little I actually knew about the resort destinations I’ve visited, so here I am with some helpful tips to help you get both the needed rest and relaxation you’re craving, along with a good dose of local culture to keep your mind and spirit active.

  • Get to know the geography. I know that this sounds like incredibly useless advice, but you’d be surprised at how important it can actually be!  I’m sure that you know all about the resort you’ll be staying at long before you get there, but do you know anything about the city or town closest to your resort?  Often times, resorts are located a bit outside the towns that host them, which makes the resorts such quiet and relaxing destinations, so you may need to get creative with how you get from your hotel to the town or local attractions.  With that being said, usually it’s fairly easy to manage with a taxi or local bus- this is something that the front desk staff at your hotel should be able to help you with.

 

  • Find the locals. In the towns surrounding tourist destinations, you will often find restaurants created for tourists, souvenir shopping, and other places that you wouldn’t ever actually find a local person. Instead of going to those places, figure out where it is that the locals actually spend their time, and there you will find the most authentic version of the place you’re visiting.  For example, during a trip earlier this year to Nassau in the Bahamas, I heard of a place called Da Fish Fry, which was meant to be a local spot to grab great seafood. Screen Shot 2016-07-08 at 9.24.57 PMDespite my absolute loathing of any food that once swam, I decided it would be worth checking out.  Well, this experience absolutely changed my view of downtown Nassau, and I spent way more time outside of my resort, but also outside of the touristy Straw Market, and now I feel like I know Nassau a little bit better.

 

  • Attend local events. Whether you’re religious and want to attend a service at a local place of worship, or you want to attend the Junkanoo festival that Nassau holds on New Year’s Eve every year, there are plenty of opportunities to get involved in the local culture through their local events and celebrations.  The local tourism website will typically have a list of local activities, from farmer’s markets and artisan markets to music or cultural festivals.

 

  • Talk to the locals! Usually when you’re at a resort, all of the people that you meet are other guests who are also enjoying their vacations.  This might be a great way to meet people from across the world, but it’s not a good way to learn about the place that you’re actually visiting!  Lucky for you, there is an easy solution: talk to the employees at the resort.  Most of the time the people working at resorts are some of the friendliest you’ll meet as they work in a very customer service-focused business.  You can have a great chat with a bar tender, casino dealer, off-duty lifeguard, taxi driver, etc. to find out who they are, and maybe even what’s happening in town that night!

Resort vacations are an amazing way to relax and rewind, but they also offer a great opportunity to explore shockingly little-explored cultures around the world!  I encourage you to get off property for a day or afternoon to get some good local food, have some good conversations, and learn something new about the world around you.  The bonus to getting out of the resort for the day is the saved cost of buying typically expensive resort food in favor of less expensive food in town.  All around, exploring your surroundings while on a resort vacation will only help to improve your experience and allow you to make fantastic memories outside the confines of your hotel!

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Best of the East Coast: Lower Hudson Valley, NY

Best of the East Coast: Lower Hudson Valley, NY

Just slightly north of New York City is the lower Hudson Valley, one of the most beautiful regions of the state of New York- and hardly ever visited by the millions of tourists flocking to NYC throughout the year.  This area features beautiful mountains, scenic river views, orchards, wineries, and all sorts of activities to keep you occupied throughout the year.

Hudson Valley map
Source: http://www.travelhudsonvalley.com/

I should probably come clean at the beginning and confess that I grew up in the Lower Hudson Valley (Monroe-Woodbury in Orange County to be exact), so I may be a bit biased in saying that this is the best of the East Coast (even though it is).  But, I’m happy to share with you the list of all of my favorite things that this incredible region has to offer!

  1. West Point (aka United States Military Academy).  It may seem strange that my top spot in the Hudson Valley is a military base, but once you see it, you’ll understand why!
    Credit: Eric Luding

    Founded at the beginning of the 19th century, the USMA is one of the most historic institutions in the US.  Its history goes back to the Revolutionary War, where a great chain constructed in the picturesque bend of the river prevented British ships from sailing north into the rest of the colonies.  Now, West Point is one of the top universities in the country, training and educating future army officers in exchange for military service.  There is a visitor’s center outside the gates of West Point where you can learn about the academy, and a museum where you’ll find information about the base’s history.  Visitors can enter the base to visit the historic Thayer Hotel, which serves up an excellent Sunday brunch and has a great rooftop restaurant/bar, Zulu Time.  You may also take a bus tour of the base to learn about its incredibly interesting history, and to get an inside look of some of the incredible buildings. Alternatively, you can enter the base on your own to explore Trophy Point, the Cadet Chapel, and the West Point Cemetery where many famous Americans are interred.  In the summer, be sure to check out the outdoor concerts at Trophy Point, or the shows and events at Eisenhower Hall from September-April.

    The view from Trophy Point. Credit: Eric Luding
    The view from Trophy Point. Credit: Eric Luding

    The best time of year to visit West Point is most certainly the autumn when the leaves take on glowing red, yellow, and orange colors, there are Army football games to attend, and the mountains seem like something out of another world.  Restrictions on entering the base are being tightened, so be sure to plan ahead if you do not have a DoD ID card; more information for visitors to West Point can be found here.

  2. Perkins Peak.Perkins PeakThis is a tough contender with West Point for my favorite spot in the Hudson Valley, but actually, the hiking trails at Perkins Peak butt up to West Point property, so we can almost consider it the same.  The Appalachian Trail runs right through Perkins Peak, but you don’t need to do any strenuous hiking to get there if you don’t want to.  This is a scenic overlook with incredible views of the Hudson River, and on a clear day, the Manhattan skyline.  A lot of people will drive up (via Perkins Memorial Drive) to Perkins Peak just to climb the lookout tower and have a picnic lunch on the beautiful, flat rocks overlooking the river.  If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you can hike a short loop of the Appalachian Trail (definitely worth doing), or one of the other many trails that run through the area.  In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful spots in the world. *Keep in mind that Perkins Peak is open only April-November.*

    App Trail
    Hiking a piece of the Appalachian Trail
  3. Bear Mountain State ParkLocated nearby to West Point, Bear Mountain is a gorgeous natural park with lots of activities to keep you entertained year round.  There is the Bear Mountain Inn with a restaurant to visit, but also a ton of outdoor activities.  Nearby to the Bear Mountain Inn is the Bear Mountain Ice Rink which is a beautiful place to skate outside in the winter.  In the summer, there are a ton of hiking trails and outdoor events to explore.  Sometimes you’ll also find Redhawk Native American pow-wows held in the park which are amazing events to attend- a good way to explore some of the native culture of New York!  And as with West Point, the most beautiful time to visit is in the autumn months when the foliage lights up in beautiful colors.  Be forewarned, this is also one of the most touristy parts of the year in the Hudson Valley, but seeing the beautiful mountain colors are more than worth a little extra road traffic!
  4. Warwick, NY. Warwick is a small town about 45 minutes from Bear Mountain State Park that’s full of beautiful farms, quaint restaurants and shops, and a lot to see and do.  The main street in Warwick is full of cute shops and restaurants that make a great afternoon stroll, but there’s a lot happening outside the commercial center, too.  In fact, I have so many top spots in Warwick that it justifies its own list:
    • Masker’s Orchard.Maskers Found just outside the main streets of Warwick, this spot is a step outside the mountains I’ve been raving about.  Masker’s Orchard is a massive orchard with hundreds of pick-your-own apple trees of all different varieties.  My all-time favorite fall activity is visiting Masker’s with a picnic lunch and finding a spot to eat under an apple tree.  You can spend as much time in the orchard as you’d like, and you pay for any apples you bag by weight on your way out (after taste-testing one or two in the orchard, of course!).  Even after leaving the orchard, you’ll find a country store with local products (definitely try the apple butter), and a food stand selling all home-made apple products like apple cider, apple pie with vanilla ice cream, and apple donuts.
    • Bellvale Farms CreameryLocated on one of the highest hills in Warwick, the Bellvale Farms Creamery has arguably one of the most beautiful views in the area, served up with what is most certainly the best ice cream I’ve ever had.  Plus, you can go meet the dairy cows right at the bottom of the hill- it doesn’t get more fresh than that.  This spot is nothing more than a local ice cream shop with a view, but it is absolutely worth a stop for the view and dessert!Bellvale
    • Warwick Valley WineryThere are many wineries in the Warwick area, but the Warwick Valley Winery tops my list because of its tasty wine, great scenery, and other amenities.  Not only does the WV Winery grow excellent, local wine, but they also have their own cider and distilleries that offer great alcohols from almost any fruit you can imagine.  In addition to their tasting room, they have a restaurant/cafe and outdoor patio where live music can be enjoyed in the summer months.  This is a great place to spend an afternoon trying some local products and enjoying the adult beverages of the area.
  5. Walkway Over the HudsonThis a relatively new Hudson Valley attraction that has gained local interest very quickly.  Spanning the Hudson River between Poughkeepsie and the New Paltz- area, it brings you a bit further north into the Hudson Valley, but well within the natural beauty of the region.  While not directly in New Paltz, the New Paltz side of the bridge is close enough to the town to include on your Walkway itinerary.  New Paltz, home to one of the State Universities of New York, is notoriously a “hippie town” with a beautiful and walkable main street, plus excellent shops and restaurants.  There are also many important historic landmarks in New Paltz, most notably the Historic Huguenot Street.  The Poughkeepsie side offers great restaurants and activities along the waterfront, making it a great end-point to your walk over the Hudson.  The Walkway itself provides you with beautiful views of the river and surrounding scenery- it’s definitely worth a visit!

Even after traveling through so much of the world and visiting so many beautiful places, I can genuinely say that the Hudson Valley is still one of my favorite places to be.  In my mind, nothing beats visiting Perkins Peak in autumn when the leaves are changing colors and looking out at the Manhattan skyline in the distance.  Likewise, there are few better ways to spend a day than sitting in an apple tree at Masker’s munching on a fresh Delicious Red.  I encourage anyone with a free weekend in NYC to make the trip up north to explore some of the great things that New York State has to offer; these are the things that make New York the Best of the East Coast.

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This post is part of an East Coast link up with bloggers all up and down the coast- check out the other posts below!